From atheist tyranny to religious pluralism: the story of Albania

By Sophy Robinson

Sophy is a former trustee of Humanists UK. She recently went on a fascinating ten-day cultural trip to Albania. In this article, which includes a candid interview with her tour guide, she reflects on the country's turbulent and tyrannical past and how it appears to have transitioned to being a peaceful country.

The last 100 years have, by any measure, been troubled for the Balkan country of Albania. There have been wars, invasions, occupations and oppressive regimes since 1925, as outlined below:

Location of Albania in the Balkans

• 1925-1928: First Albanian Republic

Albania briefly existed as a republic under President Ahmed Zogu (1895-1961), who later became King Zog I.

• 1928-1939: Kingdom of Albania

Initially, Zog ruled with Italian support but this support was followed by invasion.

• 1939-1943: Italian Occupation

Albania was invaded and occupied by Italy, followed by German occupation after Italy’s surrender.

• 1944-1985: Communist Rule (Socialist People’s Republic of Albania)

Enver Hoxha (1908-1985) established a communist regime and Albania became isolated although aligned with China.

• 1985-1991: Transition and Collapse of Communism

Hoxha’s death and the collapse of communism in Eastern Europe led to political and economic instability.

• 1990-1997: Political and Economic Crisis

The transition to democracy was marked by economic hardship, social unrest, and the turmoil of 1997.

• 1997-Present: Democratic Transition and Integration

Albania established a new constitution, joined NATO in 2009, and is seeking to join the European Union.

An Orthodox Christian church in Albania

Religion in Albania

Albania also has a complicated religious past: Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim faiths have all been influential. Islamisation started in the late 14th century and continued apace over the next 300 years. The Ottomans first entered Albania in 1385 on the invitation of an Albanian noble to suppress his enemies, but they then went on to grab power from the locals, establishing formal jurisdiction in central Albania by 1431. This was not without years of fierce resistance. A celebrated Albanian hero, called Skanderbeg, led many of the battles and the ruins of the country’s amazing hilltop fortresses in Shkoder, Durrës and Himara are a testament to the fight for independence. But within 30 years, Muslim forces prevailed, and many of the Byzantine and Christian churches had minarets added to their structures.

Albanian lands were fully incorporated into the Ottoman Empire by the late 15th century and remained under Ottoman rule for centuries. Many Albanians rose to prominence within the Ottoman administration and military. Some 30 or more Grand Viziers (the empire’s highest official after the Sultan) were of Albanian origin. Albanians were well represented in the Janissary corps, elite troops often drawn from the Balkans. Prominent Ottoman families and military leaders came from what is now Albania. The region produced influential pashas, governors, and military leaders who were trusted by the central authority.

Atheism and repression

From 1944-1985, Albania was officially an atheist country. Ironically, this is not to be celebrated by humanists, as it was one of its most infamous periods. In a dramatic pivot from fascism under Italian and then German occupation, a form of brutal and repressive communism took hold. The House of Leaves Museum in the capital city Tirana recounts the horrors of life during that period. Communist leader Enver Hoxha repressed the population with both visible and secret police.  His 41-year rule was marked by political purges, show trials, forced labour, and the quashing of religion. In 1967, Albania became the first (and only) constitutionally atheist country ever to exist, and any resistance to the regime was met with severe retribution. 

Enver Hoxha – Stalinist dictator (Image: public domain)

Key aspects of life under Hoxha

• Repression and control

  Hoxha’s regime was known for its brutal tactics, including executions, imprisonment, and internal exile of perceived opponents. 

• Isolation

  Albania was isolated from the rest of the world, with travel and visa restrictions, and a strong focus on self-sufficiency. This isolation exacerbated the country’s poverty and economic hardship. 

• Suppression of religion

  Churches and mosques were closed and destroyed, and religious practices were outlawed. Clergy were targeted in purges. 

• Economic hardship

  Albania experienced decades of poverty and starvation. It was one of the poorest countries in Europe. 

• Cult of personality

  Hoxha was presented as a saviour figure, and his writings were mandatory reading in schools. 

• Paranoia and fear

  The constant threat of “foreign enemies” and the fear of reprisal for any dissent created a climate of paranoia and fear. 

• Impact on society

  Social ties were destroyed when thousands of individuals were labelled enemies of the people and deprived of employment. 

Transition from communism

Albania’s transition from communism began in 1990. It was a complex and turbulent process, involving economic collapse and social unrest, which ended with the establishment of a democratic republic in 1992 and a shift from a centrally-planned economy to a market-based system. Albania continues to grapple with the legacy of its communist past and the challenges of economic development and political stability.  

I went on a 10-day cultural trip to Albania in April 2025. Tourism is growing fast, with nearly 12 million visitors last year. The trip included visits to historic and cultural sites including the remains of hilltop castles and fortresses, amazing Roman ruins at Butrint and Durres, national parks with dramatic craggy mountains, fast flowing rivers and wild forests, a winery and a mussel farm, and museums displaying gruesome relics of tyranny under communist rule.

Evidence of the country’s economic growth and development trajectory is everywhere. New roads are being built, old ones are being resurfaced or widened, lorries thunder past loaded with aggregate and building supplies, and recently built hotels, villas and tourist accommodation litter the stunning coastal resorts and the Valbona valley in the north. Many of the city centres buzz with café life and shoppers. Evidence of historic urban and rural decay remains, but most of the country feels as if it is energised, and open for business.

Transition to a peaceful country

In addition to having a really enjoyable and fascinating holiday I had time, on the long bus journeys, to reflect on how Albania appears to have transitioned into a peaceful country. I also wondered what has emerged from 40 years of brutally-enforced atheism, in terms of the current multifaith society. Our tour guide, Ted Abrashi, was not only very knowledgeable about the places we visited, but also went well beyond his brief to share his perspective of the country. He has a degree in languages from the University of Tirana and a formal guiding qualification. Towards the end of the trip, I had the opportunity to interview him.

Interview with Ted Abrashi

How did non-Muslim religions exist in an Islamic country for over 500 years? Were infidels persecuted? How much pressure was there to convert?

“When the Ottomans invaded the country people were mostly Catholic in the north and Orthodox Christian in the south. Conversion to Islam was pushed by making non-Muslims pay higher taxes. Most people did convert but there were no strict rules to ban other faiths.”

Did people “go underground” with their religious beliefs and practice during Hoxha’s regime? And since the return of democracy, how has religion developed in the country?

“Religion was banned and priests, monks and mullahs were persecuted, put in jail or executed. There was real repression. My great-grandfather had been a devout Muslim but he had to give up his beliefs. It was the same on my mother’s side. Over the last 30 years, older generations have become religious again, and Islam has become more prominent. Given our past, some people want to put their trust in God, it gives them hope. Atheism did not give them a better life!”

The recent census suggested that half the population are Muslim, just under 20% Christian, and the rest unaffiliated or non-believers. What is your experience of faith in Albanian society today?

“About half the population say they are believers and practice their faith. The rest might identify with a religion, but in reality they don’t follow it. Older people and those in rural areas and the north are more likely to be devout. But young people like me are mostly not religious, and we’re non-judgmental. We don’t mind what people believe – but we don’t think that religion will give us unity, or create a safer or better future.”  

Are there any ISIS supporters in Albania today, or other extremist religious groups?

“No ISIS supporters, and there are very few really strict Muslims here. You see very little evidence of it in public (for example women covering their heads) even though we have many mosques. As I said, people may say they are religious, but very few are really practising it.”

While they may not be religious, would you describe your contemporaries and fellow graduates as ideological? For example, are they involved in peace activism or any other political movements?

“Of course, we would like things to continue to be better in Albania. But from my experience, and when I went through university, we don’t have high-profile peace movements here. My peer group are pragmatic and business-focused, rather than ideological. We want the country to diversify and develop. Guides like me have to be licensed to work, and we have gatherings to discuss specific problems. For example, we think the label of being an ‘unexplored country’ is too limiting. We need new attractions to grow the tourism industry.”     

To a tourist visiting it all seems very peaceful. Is that superficial, or would you say that peace has come to stay in the country?

“You know, we don’t have the best external reputation as a nation. You might even say it is terrible. But when visitors come here, and meet the locals, they get a very different view of the country. People leave with very different impressions and can see that religion doesn’t create tensions here, that we are developing, that we’ve put the past behind us and will become an even better country in the future.”

Peace-building organisations

There are some peace-building organisations in Albania, though I’ve been unable to establish how much impact they have:

• Peace Volunteering Network (PVN)

  PVN is a non-profit organisation established in 2004 that focuses on promoting a culture of peace, social justice, democracy and human rights in Albania. They work with various stakeholders at the policy, institutional and community levels. 

• Pathways to Peace

  Pathways to Peace has organised events and conferences focused on issues such as nuclear disarmament, European security, and the role of women in peacebuilding. 

Links

• https://pathwaystopeace.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Letter-from-Mayor-Erion-Veliaj-for-ICAN-Cities-Appeal.pdf

• https://pvnalbania.org/

• https://pvnalbania.org/about/